Wooden decks

Manual for decks in PDF HERE

Each avid modeler has a desire to make his model as close to reality as possible. Veneer decks can help to reach this state because you don’t need to imitate wood. They are made from wood and moreover decks are marked in veneer so they are consistent with the historical ship construction conventions: Peripheral board is in the form of so called “waterway”. Laying of individual boards and their ending into waterway especially on the bow by so called “hooking” and narrowing in the direction to the bow and stern. Pins by which a deck was nailed to the deck beam so called “treenline” are marked. Position of deck beams correspond exactly to the construction of the given ship. These details enable to appearance be as close as possible to reality – constructions plans of given ship. Thanks to these decks you can improve esthetic appearance and also you approximate it more close to reality.​

Material used: Decks are made by CNC laser burning into the veneer strip. Only high quality specially adjusted veneer is used and is glued on felt belt for firmness increase. Felt belt guarantee higher mechanic resistance – high elasticity and resistance against cracking. Disperse felt surface also make gluing the deck easier to the plastic part of the model. After that veneer is sharped and polished to the final thickness of 0.3 mm.
Veneer alone is chosen so its surface appearance is compact with minimum of scare dates of wood. This is also reason why decks are made from oak, pear or beech and in these shades you can order decks.

How to glue the veneer deck
If you want to use veneer decks, it is need to count with this from the beginning of the model construction.
Notification: Even if the veneer has pasted beck it is rather fragile. So please use this product carefully! Especially you should be attentive during the preparation for the gluing to not crack the narrow sites in the deck between deck holes and also take care about periphery. Back crack with the smooth paper in the case of deck cracks – ideally silk paper.

1) - Preparing of the plastic base - Some plastic decks has imitation of ropes or in the case of Glorieux and Superbe by Heller there are cannonballs. Except of the some needed stick out things like boat covers these imitation we need to get rid of for example by scalpel or some grinding tool. Then we check the brightness of the holes used to gluing of other parts to the deck so they need to be pass-through for the given plastic part.
If the deck is multi-part we align all parts so they perfectly fit together. Glue parts and equalize surface of transitions of individual parts if it is possible.













2) - Color all plastic parts, which will be visible after veneer deck gluing: Ship grilles, deck holes and so on.







3) - Use scalpel to cut of deck from veneer belt. Do this on the firm and straight pad so the deck will not twist during cutting! Small projections from the joints which can remain can be remove immediately only if given part will be glued on the divided plastic decks already build in model.

4) - Check if veneer deck exactly fit on the plastic pressing. If the plastic base has one part, the check is easy and veneer deck is glued to the plastic base before installation to the model. If the plastic deck is multi-part (for example lower decks of Victory model or USS Constitution) it is needed to check placing veneer deck before.
It is possible that by the influence of dilatation of plastic or veneer some small differences will arise and it is not possible to place veneer precisely. In this case we grind plastic or veneer part, especially corner sites of the deck by file or by scalpel.

In the case that we need to adjust inner veneer holes we proceed by two methods. We measure precisely how much we need to adjust. We put the veneer on the firm pad suitable for scalpel cutting. We put guide bar next to the place we want to cut. Cut alone we proceed by gradual cut. Make separation during 3-4th cut. This prevent deviation of the scalpel from its cut axis. Use smooth and flat file in the case of sharpening by file. Put venner on the edge of the table so the sharpened site is as close to the edge as possible. Press the firm pad from above again as close as possible to the sharpened place. Then grind by longitudinal movements not vertically to the material (see picture). If the deck doesn’t fit around the perimeter – we perform adjust after gluing.


5) - Spray decks with matt or semi-gloss varnish to avoid stains on deck from overflowing glue. Another possible surface adjustment is staining veneer which we do before spraying the varnish. Use only spirit mordant for staining which evaporate fast and prevent twisting and cracking of the veneer. We apply only small amount of mordant ideally by moisten cloth or sponge.

6) - Final preparation before gluing - Patch small holes in the veneer by tape to prevent overflowing glue pour away through them.
Thigs to prepare before gluing:
The glue in sufficient amount.
Tools for spreading the glue over the surface of plastic deck and for wipe off the overflowing glue. 
Some roller or some other tool for final push of veneer to the plastic base.
Firm and flat surface for gluing and for load glued decks by firm and flat boards – ideally is to press glued layers by clamp between firm boards.
In the case that you glue on plastic decks already build in model it is suitable to use heavier loose material in the malleable bags.

7) - The best glue for the veneer decks is the glue Pattex. According attached picture.
Gluing the decks outside the model – Spread the glue in thin layer over the plastic deck. Proceed fast use brush and spatula for spreading. Especially take care about sufficient s
preading the glue around perimeter, inner holes and on places where other thigs will glued after. Apply only thin layer!
After putting the veneer deck to the plastic base with glue push properly by pulling by roller or other slippery material form the middle to the edges of the deck. Focus around the edges, inner holes and places where other thigs will glued after. During this wipe the overflowing glue.
Then load glued layers on the flat surface or press in the clamp and let minimally 24h to dry.

8) - Use fine file to adjust edges from the glue excess after drying. We drill again holes clogged by glue – Drill definitely from the top to prevent chip of the veneer by drilling from the bottom.

9) - Final adjustment - Paint or spraying by covering varnish. I recommend semi-gloss varnish on which dust not clinging as on the matt surface.
I wish you pleasant fun and perfect result for your model.

Text of instruction - Radimir Beseda
An expert consultation, correction and Photo - Zdenek Krcmar



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